The Daybreak Tee
Friends, I can’t even contain my excitement! Not only do I have a new free pattern for you today, but it’s included as one of the 12 New Must-Have Cotton Kits from Lion Brand Yarn! It might seem like a small thing, but I’m so honored to be included alongside 11 other designers that I have long admired and looked up to, and some that I’m lucky enough to call friends.
Okay okay, enough with the sap. Please let me introduce to you, the Daybreak Tee! For the free pattern, please continue scrolling. You may also purchase the ad-free printable PDF here, or purchase the kit directly from Lion Brand here (it’s a steal, friends!).
The Daybreak Tee is a slightly cropped tee with 1-3 inches of positive ease for a flattering fit. It is knit simply in the round from the bottom up, then the front and back are separated and worked flat.
The sleeves are created by casting on a few extra stitches. The shoulders are finished with a 3 needle bind off, and minimal seaming is required for under the arms.
I believe this pattern would be perfect for an adventurous beginner, but if you’re on the fence about the skill level feel free to take a peek at the included 45 minute step-by-step video tutorial, or continue scrolling to view the free pattern!
Can we take a minute to talk about some of the other kits included in the Must-Have Cotton Kits promo?? There is a great variety of both knit and crochet kits in this one. Here are just a few of my favorites (click the individual photos for the kits):
Click here to see all 12 New Must-Have Cotton Kits!
I used LB Collection Cotton Jeans in the color Grey Fade. This DK weight 100% cotton is so soft, drapey, and not splitty. It was lovely to work with!
Let’s get to the pattern, shall we?
Please see the following video tutorial for step-by-step instructions:
Yarn
3 (3, 3, 4, 4, 4) skeins LB Collection Cotton Jeans 100% cotton (218 yds/200 m per 100 g)
457 (532, 599, 672, 748, 825) yds/418 (487, 548, 615, 684, 755) m
Needles
US 6/4 mm 32 in circular needle
US 7/4.50 mm 32 in circular needle
*or size needed to obtain gauge
Notions
Stitch markers
Spare US 7/4.50 mm needle for 3 needle bind off
Yarn needle for weaving in ends and seaming
Gauge
18 sts and 25 rows = 4 in/10 cm in Stockinette stitch with US 7/4.50 mm needles (blocked)
*Take time to check gauge to ensure an accurate fit
Sizes
XS (S, M, L, XL, 2X)
To fit bust:
28-30 (32-34, 36-38, 40-42, 44-46, 48-50) in/71-76 (81.5-86.5, 91.5-96.5, 101.5-106.5, 112-117, 122-127) cm
Finished garment circumference:
31 (35, 39, 43, 47, 51) in/78.5 (89, 99, 109, 119.5, 129.5) cm
Abbreviations
CO – cast on
k – knit
k2tog – knit 2 sts together
p – purl
pm – place marker
RS – right side of work
sl – slip
sl1k – slip 1 st knitwise, with yarn in back
sl1p – slip 1 st purlwise, with yarn in front
sm – slip marker
ssk – slip 1 st knitwise, slip 1 st purlwise, knit these 2 stitches together through back loops
st(s) – stitch(es)
St st – Stockinette stitch
WS – wrong side of work
yo – yarn over
Pattern
Body
With US 6/4 mm 32 in circular needles, CO 138 (158, 174, 194, 210, 230) sts with the long tail method. Pm and join in the round, being careful not to twist sts.
Round 1: *k1, p1. Repeat from * to end of round.
Repeat round 1, working in k1 p1 rib, for 1.5 (1.5, 1.75, 1.75, 2, 2) in/4 (4, 4.5, 4.5, 5, 5) cm.
Next Round: Switch to US 7/4.50 mm 32 in circular needles and k to end of round.
Continue in St st (knitting every round), until work measures 13.5 (13.5, 13.25, 13, 12.75, 12.5) in/ 34.5 (34.5, 33.5, 33, 32.5, 32) cm from cast on edge, or until desired length from underarm.
Sleeves (Front)
The front and back will now be separated and worked flat.
Next round: sl 69 (79, 87, 97, 105, 115) sts to waste yarn. Cable CO 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts.
Next row (WS): sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to end of row. Cable CO 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. [83 (95, 103, 115, 125, 137) sts on needle]
Next row (RS): sl1k, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Next row (WS): sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat previous 2 rows once (once, once, twice, twice, twice) more.
Lace setup row: sl1k, p1, k1, p1, k12 (16, 20, 24, 29, 33), pm, k25 (27, 27, 29, 29, 31), pm, k1, pm, k25 (27, 27, 29, 29, 31), pm, k12 (16, 20, 24, 29, 33), p1, k1, p1, k1.
Next row: sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to last 4 sts (while slipping markers), k1, p1, k1, p1.
Begin Lace
Row 1 (RS): sl1k, p1, k1, p1, k to first marker, sm, k1 *k2tog, yo, repeat from * to next marker, sm, k1, sm, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to 1 st before last marker, k1, sm, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Row 3: sl1k, p1, k1, p1, k to first marker, sm, *k2tog, yo, repeat from * to 1 st before next marker, k1, sm, k1, sm, k1, *yo, ssk, repeat from * to last marker, sm, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 4: sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat rows 1-4 until front measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) in/15 (16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5) cm from cable CO edge, ending after a WS row. [total length 19.5 (20, 20.25, 20.5, 20.75, 21) in/49.5 (51, 51.5, 52, 52.5, 53.5) cm]
Next Row (RS): k1, p1, k1, p1, k17 (22, 26, 30, 35, 40) sts, bind off 41 (43, 43, 47, 47, 49) sts, k17 (22, 26, 30, 35, 40) sts, p1, k1, p1, k1. Cut yarn, leaving an extra long tail. Sl live sts to waste yarn or spare needle.
Sleeves (Back)
Sl back sts to needle. Join yarn at back left and cable CO 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts.
Next row (WS): sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to end of row. Cable CO 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts. [83 (95, 103, 115, 125, 137) sts on needle]
Row 1 (RS): sl1k, p1, k1, p1, k to last 4 sts, p1, k1, p1, k1.
Row 2 (WS): sl1p, k1, p1, k1, p to last 4 sts, k1, p1, k1, p1.
Repeat previous two rows until back measures 6 (6.5, 7, 7.5, 8, 8.5) in/15 (16.5, 18, 19, 20.5, 21.5) cm from cable CO edge, ending after a WS row. total length 19.5 (20, 20.25, 20.5, 20.75, 21) in/49.5 (51, 51.5, 52, 52.5, 53.5) cm]
Next Row (RS): k1, p1, k1, p1, k17 (22, 26, 30, 35, 40) sts, bind off 41 (43, 43, 47, 47, 49) sts, k17 (22, 26, 30, 35, 40) sts, p1, k1, p1, k1. Do not cut yarn.
Finishing
Turn garment inside out and transfer front sts to spare needle if held on waste yarn. Align shoulders together. Starting at either shoulder, hold front and back needles parallel and bind off with a spare US 7/4.50 mm needle using the 3 needle bind off method (see video). Repeat for the opposite shoulder.
Seam the 7 (8, 8, 9, 10, 11) sts from each panel at both underarms.
Weave in all ends, and block.
That’s all there is to it! I hope you enjoy knitting the Daybreak Tee! Remember, you can find this pattern in the full kit from Lion Brand here or as a printable PDF here. Pin the image above to save it for later, or add it to your Ravelry queue here!
Simple lines with lace knitting to provide a bit of flair,,,, well,,, well done Thanks so much for sharing this lovely work SMILE
Hi Destiny,
Do you have any beginner friendly tee patterns? I’m very new to knitting and would love to accomplish something nice. I’m a bit dyslexic and I do better with watching tutorials. I love the Daybreak Tee but, it would be like trying to climb Kilimanjaro.
thank you in advance,
Gina
Hi Gina, You might like my Peek-A-Boo Tee pattern: The Peek-A-Boo Tee – Free Pattern It’s a bit simpler, knit flat with no shaping. It also includes video tutorials!:) Happy knitting, Destiny
Is the back solid?
Also, can I make the lace panel narrower, for more modesty?
Hi Monica, Yes the back is solid. You can certainly make the lace panel narrower if you’d like. You’d just need to make sure that the lace section is an odd number that is still odd when you subtract 1 and divide by 2. That probably doesn’t make much sense! For instance, the medium size has 55 stitches in the lace section: 55-1= 54. 54/2 = 27. The number 53 would not work: 53-1=52. 52/2=26. I hope that helps!
Hi, I’m working on this with Lion Brand Comfy Cotton. Really had a awful time with the gauge. I moved down to a size small and using recommended needles and hoping for the best.
Anyway…
How do I make it longer before the lace panel? I want it to fall on my pelvis bones.
Next, I want the lace panel to be narrower and begin higher on my body. I noticed a lot of people’s tops reveal the tops of their bras.
Last, I’ve been seeking help on a knitting4knewbies FB page and they advise if the garment is made in the round, to swatch in the round. Perhaps that’s why I couldn’t get gauge? Stockinette knitted flat, can be looser due to the purls, which use more yarn. Stockinette in the round, I feel, is a bit tighter because you know every stitch. Just a thought.
Thanks for your help. I really am determined to make a successful garment. I’ve never knitted a garment before and yours looked promising with the YouTube tutorial.
Have a great day.
Monica